Day 1 – Daytona to Rockledge

11:15 - Daytona (photo courtesy Dumps) 2:16 PM– Scottsmoor the old boy in the gas station seemed pretty excited about the forest fire. ‘Outta control’ he said, with blue eyes glittering. ‘That’s why I’m stocking up.’ He had a 24 case of Coor’s Light under one arm and asked for a carton of cigarettes when he got to the till. "Good thing you ain't riding north! !" He chuckled as he walked out. "Be careful now!" We had both just finished listening to a rather sizable lady explain to the counter staff that her husband had been complaining that she was getting too thin. ‘He’s told me I look like a crack whore,’ she cackled. The counter staff nodded sympathetically. I couldn’t see her face throughout this exchange, so I held back on passing judgement. ‘an that just ain’t no fair.’ Despite dropping the Southern double negative, she sounded fairly well satisfied with the situation. This being my first stop, there’s already a few lessons to be learned. 1) I really am going to have to do something about my saddle. After two hours, it has started to feel like I was sawing at my perinium with a loop of barbed wire. That, or I have somehow managed to sit on the bike chain. 2) a quart-sized water bottle is inadequate. Mostly because 3) Florida is fucking huge. No matter how much you think of the place as being wall-to-wall crowded with Publix, Walgreens and the like, there are still these huge empty bits in between, containing just the odd trailer (not even trailer park), fishing hole, Church of the Nazarene or closed down marina. There seem to be a shit load of those, leading me to think that 4) the economy here is still on its ass. I have passed many desolate scenes worthy of Stephen Shore. Beautiful and empty in a sort of post-apocalyptic way. Perhaps that’s not far…

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My Indo ride…

i've had even more adventures getting a bike on the road here than in India. thankfully, the Balinese seem to have seen it all, so the sight of so much naked seatpost doesn't so much as get a second look. (something like this could cause a riot in india). this little sweetheart was an old mountain bike, with some new bits fitted. i had to break the rear hub, bottom bracket and left crank on successive days in order to flush out all the crap components, but thankfully the guy at the bike shop (yet another Made) was both knowledgeable and very nice, swapping me up a level each time at no or minimal charge. He was even good enough to find and apply the comedy decals. total cost: £48 (guaranteed resale value to his friend the rental guy, £30). bargain. best of all is the route. it's uphill all the way out, heading north towards the volcano, and downhill all the way back. the scenery, as you might expect given the incessant eulogies from Tash and myself, is spectacular. currently building up for the three or so hours of solid uphill that will be required to reach Lake Batur. hopefully by then some inroads will have been made on the sneaky inches that are threatening to engulf 'the washboard'. looking forward to your ridicule..... Functional, yes. Pretty, she most certainly ain't

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